Farm Fencing on a Budget — Where to Save and Where Not to

Times are tight for a lot of producers across the Central West, and fencing isn't cheap. But there's a big difference between being smart with your money and cutting corners that'll cost you double down the track. Here's where you can genuinely save on a fencing project, and where you absolutely should not skimp.

WHERE YOU CAN SAVE

INTERNAL PADDOCK DIVISIONS

If you're subdividing an existing paddock for rotational grazing, you don't need the same standard as a boundary fence. A 5-wire plain wire fence with wider picket spacing (7m instead of 5m) does the job for cattle at a fraction of the cost — around $2.40/m compared to $4.30/m for full mesh.

For temporary subdivision, electric fencing is even cheaper. A single strand of polywire on tread-in posts can divide a paddock for under $1/m. It won't last forever, but it doesn't need to.

PICKET SPACING ON FLAT GROUND

On dead-flat country west of Dubbo or on the plains around Parkes, you can push picket spacing out to 6-7 metres on straight runs without any drama. That's 143-167 pickets per kilometre instead of 200 at 5m spacing. At $8.40 each for 180cm black pickets, the savings add up quickly over a long run.

Just don't try this on hilly ground. The mesh sags between pickets on slopes and the whole fence looks (and works) poorly.

BUY MESH IN 200M ROLLS

Our 7/90/30 mesh is $285 for a 200m roll. The 100m rolls of other mesh types are proportionally more expensive per metre. If you've got a decent run to fence, the 200m rolls give you better value. Same goes for wire — HT 2.5mm comes in 1500m rolls at $200, which is better buying than smaller coils.

PALLET PRICING

If your project is big enough, ask about pallet pricing. We offer pallet rates on mesh, pickets, and wire that are meaningfully cheaper than retail. For a job over a couple of kilometres, the savings can be hundreds of dollars. Ring us on 0434 093 077 to check pallet pricing — it's not always displayed online.

DO YOUR OWN LABOUR

Fencing contractors charge $8-$15 per metre for labour, which on a 2km fence is $16,000-$30,000. If you've got the time, a mate with a post driver, and a decent pair of hands, doing it yourself saves the most money of anything on this list.

Watch some YouTube tutorials, read our guides, and start with a short run to build confidence before tackling a big boundary fence.

REUSE WHAT YOU CAN

If you're replacing an old fence, those strainer posts might still have life in them. Hardwood strainer posts that are still solid in the ground can be reused — just replace the stays and bracing. Old star pickets that aren't bent can go into internal fences or temporary work.

WHERE YOU SHOULD NOT CUT CORNERS

STRAINER ASSEMBLIES

This is the number one place people try to save money, and it's the number one reason fences fail. Undersized strainer posts, skipped diagonal braces, or too few assemblies on hilly ground means your entire fence loses tension over time. Once the strainers move, the mesh goes slack, and your stock walks through it.

Spend the money on proper strainer posts ($70 for 2.4m) and build them correctly. They're the foundation of everything.

MESH QUALITY FOR BOUNDARY FENCES

Boundary fences are your legal obligation and your first line of stock containment. Don't use cheap imported mesh with inconsistent wire gauge or dodgy knots. Stick with quality Australian-spec hinged joint mesh from a known supplier. The $25 you save on a roll of questionable mesh costs you $2,000 when your cattle end up on the neighbour's place.

PICKET WEIGHT

Lightweight pickets (1.86kg/m or less) bend and lean over time, especially with stock rubbing on them or kangaroos hitting the fence. Our 2.1kg/m heavy pickets cost a touch more but they're 13% heavier — more steel, more rigidity, more longevity. Over 20 years, the heavier picket is the cheaper picket.

BARBED WIRE GAUGE

Thin barbed wire rusts and breaks faster. If you're running barbed wire, go at least 1.8mm MT ($125/500m). The 1.57mm stuff is fine for light duty, but on boundary fences where it matters, the thicker gauge lasts longer and handles more tension.

THE BOTTOM LINE

A well-built fence on a budget is still a good fence. Save on spacing, labour, and bulk buying. Spend on strainers, mesh quality, and picket weight. Get the balance right and you'll have fencing that lasts 20-30 years without the regret of watching it fall apart in five.

Need help working out the best value combination for your project? Pop into 76 Astill Drive, Orange, or give us a call. We'll run the numbers both ways so you can see where the real savings are.

Back to blog