How to Build a Dog-Proof Fence With Apron Mesh

Wild dogs are one of the biggest threats to stock across western and central NSW. If you've ever found lambs killed overnight, you know the sickening feeling — and the financial hit. A well-built dog-proof fence is the single most effective way to protect your flock. Here's how to build one that actually works.

THE CONCEPT

A dog-proof fence combines tall, tight mesh with an apron mesh skirt laid flat on the ground extending outward from the base. The idea is simple: the tall mesh stops animals going over or through, and the apron stops them digging under. When a dog or fox reaches the base of the fence and tries to dig, they're digging on top of the apron mesh — they can't get under it because they'd have to start digging well back from the fence, and animals instinctively dig right at the base.

MESH SELECTION

For the main fence, you want tight-stay exclusion mesh:

  • 8/115/15 ($250 for 100m): Our most popular choice for dog-proof fencing. The 115cm height combined with 15cm stay spacing creates a formidable barrier.
  • 11/142/15 ($330 for 100m): The ultimate exclusion mesh. At 142cm tall with 11 horizontal wires and 15cm stays, nothing is getting through this.

For the apron, you need a separate roll of apron mesh (sometimes called "netting" or "vermin mesh") — a lighter mesh that lays flat on the ground extending 300-600mm outward from the base of the fence.

BUILDING THE FENCE

1. PREPARE YOUR FENCE LINE: Clear vegetation along the fence line and for at least a metre either side. The apron needs to lay flat on the ground, so remove rocks, stumps, and anything that would lift it off the surface.

2. BUILD YOUR STRAINER ASSEMBLIES: Same as any fence, but potentially beefier — exclusion mesh is heavy and you'll be running top wires as well. Use box strainers with solid bracing.

3. SET YOUR PICKETS: Spacing of 4-5 metres for exclusion fencing. The tighter spacing helps keep the mesh rigid and resistant to animals pushing against it. Use 210cm or 240cm pickets to get enough height above ground while still having adequate depth.

4. RUN THE MAIN MESH: Attach the exclusion mesh to your strainer assemblies and clip it to every picket. The bottom of the mesh should sit right at ground level — any gap between mesh and ground is an invitation for predators.

On undulating ground, this is where it gets tricky. The mesh needs to follow every contour. On dips, let the mesh belly slightly and peg it down. On rises, you may need to cut the bottom wire and re-tie to keep it tight against the ground.

5. LAY THE APRON MESH: This is the critical step that makes it dog-proof. Unroll the apron mesh along the outside of the fence (the predator side). The apron should:

  • Overlap with the bottom of the main mesh by at least 100mm
  • Extend outward at least 300mm (500mm+ is better)
  • Lay flat on the ground
  • Be tied to the main mesh at regular intervals using tie wire

6. SECURE THE APRON: Peg the apron to the ground using ground pegs, J-pins, or short lengths of wire bent into U-shapes. Over time, grass and soil will grow over the apron, locking it in place. Some people cover it with a thin layer of soil immediately to speed up this process.

7. ADD TOP WIRES: Run one or two strands of barbed wire above the mesh, spaced 100-150mm apart. This discourages animals from climbing over. For particularly athletic dogs, some property owners add a floppy top — an angled overhang of mesh or wire that wobbles when an animal tries to climb it, causing them to fall back.

8. ELECTRIFY (OPTIONAL): An electrified offset wire 150-200mm from the mesh on the predator side is the belt-and-braces approach. When a dog touches it, they learn very quickly to stay away from the fence entirely.

COMMON WEAK POINTS

Gates: The most common failure point in any exclusion fence. Make sure gates sit flush to the ground with no gap underneath. Use a concrete sill or gravel pad under the gate to eliminate gaps.

Creek crossings: Water has to flow, but predators will follow a creek under your fence. Use a suspended mesh curtain that hangs into the water, or install a flood gate that allows water through but blocks animals.

Joins: Where mesh rolls overlap, make sure there's no gap. Overlap by at least one full vertical stay and tie the meshes together securely.

Corners: Dogs will test corners first. Make sure your corner assemblies are solid and the mesh is tight right into the corner.

WHAT DOES IT COST?

A dog-proof fence costs more than a standard stock fence — roughly 50-80% more depending on the mesh choice and whether you electrify. But if you're losing lambs to wild dogs, the payback is quick. Even a few lambs saved each year covers the additional investment.

For the Central West — Orange, Dubbo, Wellington, anywhere along the ranges — wild dogs are an ongoing problem. A properly built exclusion fence is the most reliable long-term solution.

Come in and talk to us about exclusion fencing materials. We'll help you get the right mesh, the right quantities, and the right approach for your country. Outback Fencing Supplies, 76 Astill Drive, Orange, or call 0434 093 077.

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