How to Build a Fence From Scratch — Start to Finish

So you've got a paddock that needs fencing — maybe it's a new boundary line, maybe the old fence finally gave up after 30 years of faithful service. Either way, building a fence from scratch isn't as daunting as it looks. We've helped hundreds of property owners across the Central West get their fencing right the first time, and this guide covers everything from planning through to that satisfying moment when you tension the last wire.

STEP 1: PLAN YOUR FENCE LINE

Before you buy a single picket, walk the fence line. Seriously, get out there with a GPS or even just your phone and map out the run. Note any changes in terrain — gullies, rocky patches, slopes — because these affect your strainer placement and material quantities.

Key decisions at this stage:

• What stock are you containing? Sheep need tighter mesh than cattle.
• How long is the run? Measure in metres, not guesses.
• Where do you need gates? Plan gate positions before you start, not after.
• Are there any easements or boundary setbacks to worry about?

STEP 2: MARK YOUR STRAINER POSITIONS

Strainer assemblies go at every corner, every gate, every significant change in direction, and at intervals of no more than 200-300 metres on straight runs. Mark these positions first because they're the backbone of your entire fence.

On flat ground, you can push strainer spacing out a bit further. On hilly country around Orange or through the ranges toward Bathurst, keep them closer together — the terrain puts extra load on the wire.

STEP 3: BUILD YOUR STRAINER ASSEMBLIES

This is the most important part of the whole job. A fence is only as good as its strainer assemblies. You want treated timber posts (minimum 150mm diameter for end assemblies), set at least 600mm into the ground, with a horizontal stay and a diagonal brace.

We'll cover strainer assemblies in detail in a separate post, but the key point is: don't rush this step. Get your strainers plumb, solid, and properly braced before you move on.

STEP 4: SET YOUR PICKET SPACING

For most rural fencing with hinged joint mesh, star pickets go every 5 to 7 metres. Tighter spacing (4-5m) on hilly ground or where stock pressure is high. Wider spacing (6-7m) on flat, straight runs with lighter stock.

Our 2.1kg/m heavy-duty star pickets are built for Australian conditions — 13% heavier than the 1.86kg/m industry standard, which means more steel per metre and better resistance to being pushed over by determined cattle or roos hitting the fence at speed.

For a kilometre of fencing at 5m spacing, you're looking at roughly 200 pickets. At 7m spacing, that drops to about 143. We'll go deeper on picket quantities in another post.

STEP 5: DRIVE YOUR PICKETS

Use a quality post driver (manual or powered) and drive each picket to the correct depth — typically 400-450mm for a 165cm picket, deeper for taller pickets. Make sure the lugs (the bumps on the Y-bar) face the side the mesh will be attached to.

Keep them in a straight line. Run a string line between strainers if you need to — there's no shame in it, and a straight fence looks professional and works better.

STEP 6: RUN YOUR MESH

Unroll your mesh along the fence line on the stock side of the pickets. Start at one strainer assembly, tension the mesh using a fence strainer or monkey grip, and secure it to the strainer post. Then work along the line, clipping the mesh to each picket using fence clips or a clip gun.

The mesh should sit firm against the pickets without being over-tensioned. If you're getting a bow between pickets, it's too loose. If the pickets are being pulled toward each other, it's too tight.

STEP 7: ADD TOP AND BOTTOM PLAIN WIRE OR BARBED WIRE

Most rural fences benefit from a plain wire or barbed wire along the top, and sometimes the bottom. This adds structural strength and helps prevent stock from pushing over or under the mesh.

Run the wire through the top of the pickets (above the mesh) and tension it at each strainer assembly. Barbed wire is particularly effective for cattle along the top line.

STEP 8: HANG YOUR GATES

Install your gate posts (these should be beefier than standard strainer posts — 200mm minimum) and hang your gates. Our N-brace gates come in 12ft ($145), 14ft ($175), and 16ft ($200) sizes, which cover most paddock and laneway applications.

STEP 9: FINAL CHECK

Walk the entire fence line. Check every clip, every strainer, every gate latch. Give the mesh a shake at random points. Tighten anything that needs it. A final inspection now saves you chasing escaped stock next week.

There you have it — a fence, built from scratch, ready to do its job for the next couple of decades. If you need materials, pricing, or advice on quantities, give us a call on 0434 093 077 or drop into our yard at 76 Astill Drive, Orange. We're always happy to help you get the right gear for the job.