Fencing a New Property — Where to Start

You've just bought a property — maybe a small acreage near Orange, a grazing block out past Molong, or a bigger holding toward Dubbo. The fencing might be good, bad, or non-existent. Where do you actually start?

STEP 1: WALK EVERY FENCE LINE

Before you spend a dollar, walk every single fence line on the property. Yes, all of them. Take your phone for photos and notes, and record:

• Which fences are solid and functional
• Which fences are damaged but repairable
• Which fences are beyond repair (rusted mesh, leaning pickets, collapsed strainers)
• Which boundaries have no fence at all
• Where gates are and whether they work
• Where water crossings are (creeks, drainage lines)

This walkabout might take a full day on a larger property, but it's the most valuable day you'll spend. You can't plan without knowing what you've got.

STEP 2: CHECK YOUR BOUNDARIES

Boundary fences are your legal responsibility (shared with your neighbours — more on that in our boundary fencing rules post). They're also your first priority because:

• They contain your stock and keep other people's stock out
• They define your legal property boundary
• Neighbours expect functional boundary fences
• Council and LLS can require you to maintain them

If boundary fences are in poor condition, these get fixed first, regardless of what else you want to do.

STEP 3: IDENTIFY YOUR IMMEDIATE NEEDS

Your fencing priority depends on what you're doing with the property:

Running cattle? You need at least one secure holding paddock near the yards, functional boundary fences, and a laneway from paddocks to yards. Everything else can wait.

Running sheep? Boundary fences must be lamb-safe if you're breeding. One secure lambing paddock takes priority over subdivision.

Horses? Boundary fences need to be free of barbed wire at horse height (or use sight rails). Horse-safe mesh like 8/115/30 is worth the investment.

Hobby farm? Secure the area immediately around the house and sheds first. Boundary fences come second if you're not running stock.

STEP 4: PRIORITISE YOUR PROJECTS

Here's a practical priority order that works for most new property owners:

Priority 1 — Critical boundary repairs: Fix any boundary fences that stock can escape through right now. These might be temporary repairs (extra wire, patches, tie-offs) while you plan permanent rebuilds.

Priority 2 — One secure paddock: Build or repair one paddock that's completely stock-proof. This gives you somewhere to put animals while you work on everything else.

Priority 3 — Yards and handling area: Make sure your yards and the fencing around them are functional. You can't manage stock without working yards.

Priority 4 — Laneway access: Fence a laneway from your secure paddock to the yards. Stock movement is impossible without laneways on anything bigger than a small block.

Priority 5 — Boundary rebuilds: Now tackle the full boundary fence rebuilds, starting with the worst sections and the boundaries with the highest stock pressure.

Priority 6 — Internal subdivision: Once your boundaries are secure, start dividing paddocks for grazing management.

STEP 5: BUDGET AND STAGE THE WORK

Fencing an entire property in one hit is expensive. A 200-acre property might need $30,000-$50,000 in fencing materials alone. Most people stage the work over 2-5 years.

Year 1: Critical repairs, one secure paddock, yards, laneway — budget $5,000-$10,000

Year 2: Boundary fence rebuilds (worst sections) — budget $8,000-$15,000

Year 3: Remaining boundary work — budget $5,000-$10,000

Year 4-5: Internal subdivision — budget to suit

STEP 6: TALK TO YOUR NEIGHBOURS

Before you rebuild boundary fences, talk to the people on the other side. In NSW, boundary fencing costs are shared (Dividing Fences Act 1991). Your neighbour may be willing to go halves on materials and labour, or you might negotiate one party doing the work and the other contributing materials.

Getting this conversation right saves money and maintains good relationships. Nobody wants a fencing dispute with the people they'll live next to for the next 20 years.

STEP 7: GET A MATERIALS PLAN

Once you know your priorities, come and see us at 76 Astill Drive, Orange. Bring your property map, your fence line photos, and your list of what needs doing. We'll help you work out quantities, pricing, and the best materials for each section.

We do this for new property owners every week — from first-time hobby farmers to experienced graziers buying their next block. No question is too basic. Call 0434 093 077 or drop in.

STEP 4: PLAN YOUR MATERIALS AND BUDGET

Once you've identified your priorities, it's time to get serious about materials and costs. Different fence types suit different purposes, and understanding your options will save you money in the long run.

For boundary fences, ringlock mesh with barbed wire is still the gold standard for rural properties. It's stock-proof for cattle and sheep, long-lasting, and neighbours expect it. Budget around $8-12 per metre depending on your choice of mesh and whether you're doing the labour yourself.

Internal subdivision fences can often be simpler and cheaper. Plain wire electric fencing works brilliantly for cattle if you've got reliable power. For sheep, a few strands of plain wire with Outback Pickets every 10-15 metres does the job at a fraction of the cost of full mesh fencing.

Don't forget about gates in your planning. A good hinged gate costs $200-400, but it'll outlast three cheap ones. Position gates logically — you'll use them more than you think, especially for moving stock and getting machinery through.

GETTING THE JOB DONE

Most property owners tackle fencing in stages over several years. Start with your immediate priorities, then chip away at the rest as time and budget allow. If you're doing the work yourself, invest in decent tools — a good wire strainer, quality pliers, and a proper post hole shovel will make the job infinitely easier.

Remember that fencing is a marathon, not a sprint. Quality materials and proper installation will serve you for decades, while rushing the job with cheap materials means you'll be fixing it again in five years.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much should I budget for fencing a new property?

Plan on $10-15 per metre for boundary fencing with ringlock mesh, and $3-6 per metre for internal subdivision fencing. A typical 50-acre block might need 2-3km of boundary fencing plus internal subdivision, so budget $30,000-50,000 for comprehensive fencing. Remember you can spread this over several years by prioritising the most essential sections first.

Should I use contractors or do the fencing myself?

Boundary fences and major projects often justify contractors — they're faster, have the right equipment, and the work is usually warranted. Internal subdivision and repairs are perfect DIY projects if you've got the time and inclination. A good compromise is hiring contractors for the heavy work (strainer posts, pulling mesh) and doing the finishing work yourself.

What's the most common fencing mistake new property owners make?

Trying to do everything at once with inadequate planning. This leads to running out of materials halfway through, poor gate placement, and corners cut on quality. Take time to plan properly, budget realistically, and tackle fencing in logical stages. Your future self will thank you for doing it right the first time.

Use our free fencing calculator to estimate your project, or give Jess a call on 0434 093 077 for expert advice.